Semana Santa, Day 3 (The Evening)

La Catedral and Paddy O’Flaherty’s

La Catedral is the focal point of the Plaza de Armas. The Spaniards built the cathedral in the same site as an Incan temple. This was a well used strategy, destroy a major Inca site, but utilize the strong foundation and the use of stone in the reconstruction of a Spanish monument or building.

The Catedral contains more than 400 paintings from the Cusco school of art. One of the largest and most interesting paintings is of the last supper where Christ and his apostles are feasting on cuy, the Andean delicacy of guinea pig. This is a prime example of the Cusco school’s blending of European art styles with traditional Andean customs. The Cusco school of art began at the end of the 16th century and was the major school of art in South America for over 200 years. In that time is estimated that over a million canvases were painted and distributed all over South America and as far north as Santa Fe, New Mexico.

Inside La Catedral almost every wall is covered with a painting. The only areas not ordained with paintings are lavishly decorated with precious jewels and metals. The golden Tabernacle is covered with pearls, emeralds, and diamonds. And the enormous main alter is completely covered with silver.

While we are there one of the most important relics of the church is placed at the main alter: Señor de los Temblores, Lord of the Earthquakes. This large black Jesus figure is Cusco’s main religious icon set upon 26 kilos of solid gold. In 1650 a great earthquake shook Cusco and did not stop until locals removed this large crucifix from the cathedral and paraded it in the square. This “miraculous” event was said to repeat itself in 1950 during another major earthquake. On Monday there will be a large festival where the crucifix will be paraded through the streets again. The festival occurs every Monday of Holy Week.

After enjoying the cathedral we headed to the corner of the Plaza, next to the church, where we noticed a Guinness harp on the second story window of a restaurant. A religious like beacon to those down below. This was the first sign that we had found Paddy O’Flaherty’s Pub. (The highest Irish owned pub in the world.) Our friends who visited Cusco earlier this year told us we needed to find the Irish pub. For North Americans living in Colombia this is the closest to home cooked comfort food found on this continent. After ordering some beer, shepherd’s pie, and a spicy veggie pita pizza we found ourselves surrounded by English speakers from around the world, many with heavy Irish or English accents. A great meal and end to a busy day.